Bigwall ice climbing in Norway

Beginning of February Markus Stofer and myself went on an Ice-Climbing trip to Norway.

Back in 1999 I had noticed the big icefalls in the Fjords close to Gudvangen (Aurland) in Naeroydalen, probably some of the highest in the world. But being situated so close to the sea the ice climbing conditions are not perfect. The mild golf stream and the west winds keep most of the waterfalls from the rockfaces from freezing.

But this year everything changes and the extreme cold temperatures which went below even minus 30 degrees made absolutely everything freeze. Our chance and exactly the conditions we had been waiting for.

INTO THE WILD

With “In to the Wild” WI 6X (900 meters high and 1300 meters long) we managed to first ascent of - what we know - the longest icefall ever climbed in the world. Our next stop was Eidfjord and with it the "classic" Vöringfossen (180 meters high). On the south face of Mabodalen we opened the route “Landplage” WI 7- (240 meters long) which is an awesome mixed climb on free hanging icicles.

Last winter a Canadian ice climbing team had been active in this area and climbed great routes in the grades of WI 5-WI 6+. However, according to the locals, one can not be sure about a first ascent in the middle graded routes because also in Norway there are good ice climbers and the land of big waterfalls and uncountable climbing possibilities is quite popular. But still: while ice-climbing in Norway you will hardly meet anyone on the falls which makes it much more of an adventure compared to climbing in the Alps.

FOSSLIMONSTER

Back in Guvangen we tried to climb the most outstanding waterfall of the Naeroydalen. On our first approach the ice still looked too thin to climb but thing were getting better and more climbable. We gave it a try and during the first 300 meters the ice was glassy but thick enough. We changed our fights back to home and started a serious attempt only two days later. The mixed-pitches took more time than expected and temperatures of –10°C made the ice even more glassy than the day before. After two thirds of the Face and two pitches in the darkness we had to give up. The “Fosslimonster” had won.

Back home I could not stop thinking of the failed attempt. I booked the next flight, held an iceclimbing-event in Switzerland and returned as fast as I could with Roger Schaeli, a friend of mine from Switzerland. I had to make my dream of the wildest waterfall I've ever climbed come true!

Back in Norway Roger and I faced other challenge which would have nearly made our climb impossible. Most of our gear had gone stuck in Holland, the customs-guys made a big deal about our equipment and finally a mad driver almost killed us on our way to the waterfall.

Finally we managed to reach Gudvangen and the next morning at 4 in the morning we started up on our “Fosslimonster”. The temperatures were around 0°C and just right for the climb. After long day we succeeded and had climbed our “Fosslimonster” M8+, WI6+, 800 meters high and about 1000 meters of climbing. We surly had climbed two of the world's highest waterfalls and a big dream came true. The next day it began to melt we had just been in time.

Waterfalls like “Fosslimonster” are such prefect lines of frozen water that I fear they will hardly cross my path again. For me it was a exciting and wonderful combination of modern ice and mixed climbing and the sheer dimensions of the ascents were an adventure in itself. And the end of the day that’s what it's all about.